Love really makes the world go round, but sex makes love go round..

The real enemy is not fat but us. We are the misusers; we are the greedy ones. If we have no better sense than to purposefully destroy ourselves, it ….

My favorite toy or game has been the ocean. My real passion is for saltwater..

Health begets Spirit..

A real man is capable of controlling himself before he controls his children..

I think it is easy to be a doctor. There are a hell of a lot more doctors than there are guys riding big Pipeline..

I love to be called Doc..

It's easier to die when you have lived, than it is to die when you haven't. So I say to all young people, go make memories; beautiful memories. Becau….

I don't see myself as legendary. If you want a legend, talk about someone like Duke Kahanamoku..

Health is more than the mere absence of disease, it's the presence of a superior state of well being, a pizzazz, a vitality that has to be worked for….

Health is a presence of a superior state of wellbeing, a vigor, a vitality, a pizzazz you have to work for every single day of your life..

The reason he [Duke Kahanamouku] didn't like me was that I liked him too much..

It's easier to die when you have lived than it is to die when you haven't..

Death is not a stalker, always looking for us. Death is a scorekeeper tallying up how much we love life and how much we are willing to work for it. W….

There is a wisdom in the wave - high-born, beautiful - for those who would but paddle out..

The greatest thing in life is health..

Some of the most profound realizations that I came to about health did not derive from medicine, but derived from surfing..

Wisdom comes from intent, experience, and finding courage..

Everything that mattered, I learned from surfing..

God loves happy people..

Big wave surfers are human beings that have powers. They are men of enormous gentility..