Occupation: Surfer Birth: February 11, 1972
I didn't think that wave was going to offer a ton, ... But the wave just held form, and I was able to get a lot out of it..
I think when a surfer becomes a surfer, it's almost like an obligation to be an environmentalist at the same time..
There are so many different elements to surfing. Small waves, big waves, long boards, short boards. This makes it a sport you can share with people. ….
It's like the mafia. Once you're in - your in. There's no getting out..
Most anything I've ever set my mind to, I could accomplish..
Not to sound too deep or weird, but I assume that the occasions once you pretty take pleasure in surfing are the occasions you are extremely kind of ….
To receive a 10-point ride is a blessing in itself, but to have it honored by giving to those who could use a little support to accomplish the things….
I'm the competitor, I'm the one who has to wear the brunt of that being a good or bad score. And I'm not too worried about it. I don't know why so ma….
Motivation is temporary. Inspiration is permanent..
Well I'm always working on constantly everything. I never take the approach that I'm doing as well as I possibly can... I always think there's more a….
I still feel like my best surfing is ahead of me..
For a surfer, it's never-ending. There's always some wave you want to surf..
Not to sound too deep or weird, but I think that the times when you really appreciate surfing are the times you're really sort of becoming one with n….
Fatherhood isn't always a planned thing, but when it happens you just do it. It's very natural and in that sense it's not really difficult..
I've always thought surfing is a reflection of who you are..
I've been in a poor physical shape many times in my career and I've had some of my best results. My best performances happened because my mind was in….
It's all about where your mind's at.
The joy of surfing is so many things combined, from the physical exertion of it, to the challenge of it, to the mental side of the sport..
A wave isn't like a skate ramp or mountain; everything's moving around, and you have to time how to move along with it. That's easier with a slow wav….
This was the most emotional title of my career. I was the youngest champion, and now I'm the oldest..
Your surfing can get better on every turn, on every wave you catch. Learn to read the ocean better. A big part of my success has been wave knowledge..