Occupation: Surfer Birth: August 11, 1934 Death: January 3, 2002
I just don’t want to come down to that level of society….the ones who sit by their televisions, drink their beer, their guts fat, vicariously living ….
They come out of nowhere, instantaneously materialize and just as quickly they break and vanish. Chasing after such fleeting mirages is a complete wa….
Thank God for a few free waves..