If you're going to make a big wave, you have to be totally unified with everything that's happening... Maybe in the moment of having to know everythi….

You're actually inside the surfboard... you're inside the landscape around you and the ocean is surging, you get totally inside the moment and it's s….

Surfing is all about living in the moment. When you walk out on the Sydney Cricket Ground to play cricket you're intensely aware of the history of th….

That's what I think people sense when they get hooked by surfing - hooked by their relationship with the ocean. All of a sudden, they're part of some….

I know when I've been surfing I've got a sense of level of calmness to me, and when I hit the ocean, even in its presence, at the shore, and especial….