Occupation: Surfer Birth: August 21, 1955
I will catch a wave every day, even in my mind..
The energy that moves across the ocean connects all surfers who ride it..
Surfing also teaches quality . I will wager that it is not the number of waves that makes a session memorable for any given surfer, but that one beau….
Surfing is all about uncertainty. That feeling of taking a risk, that leap of faith every time I jump into the ocean, that paddle out among things un….
All surfers are joined by one ocean..
Across all countries and cultures surfers are connected not by nationality, religion, politics, age … but by their experience riding waves. This is a….
One word defines the essence of surfing better for me than any other — stoke . One of the best things about stoke is that you can pass it along to so….
Surfing teaches patience . On land, surfers cannot will a swell to appear. They have to wait for nature to make the call. So surfers wait . They keep….