I always wanted to write. While I was on a long surf trip, supporting myself with various day jobs, I was working hard on a novel. My third novel, in fact.
Poor-country surf communities can be complex and, to some extent, leveling. The fisherman's kid is competing head to head with the plutocrat's gilded… - William Finnegan
Poor-country surf communities can be complex and, to some extent, leveling. The fisherman's kid is competing head to head with the plutocrat's gilded…
- William Finnegan
I need to conduct myself differently in different communities. In my experience, the journalistic conventions - you know, I'm the reporter, you're th… - William Finnegan
I need to conduct myself differently in different communities. In my experience, the journalistic conventions - you know, I'm the reporter, you're th…
It's completely different, for instance, to report on poor farmers in Africa than it is to report on, say, poor African-Americans. The familiarity of… - William Finnegan
It's completely different, for instance, to report on poor farmers in Africa than it is to report on, say, poor African-Americans. The familiarity of…
I remember surfing in Fiji, Samoa, Tonga, even Madeira, when local fishermen had never seen a surfboard before, and refused to believe that we could … - William Finnegan
I remember surfing in Fiji, Samoa, Tonga, even Madeira, when local fishermen had never seen a surfboard before, and refused to believe that we could …
Even wars, big conflicts that have drawn a lot of news coverage, sometimes seem to me to have a center that hasn't been described, that might yet be … - William Finnegan
Even wars, big conflicts that have drawn a lot of news coverage, sometimes seem to me to have a center that hasn't been described, that might yet be …
The differences between the received wisdom, the standard version of events, and the facts on the ground may be subtle or they may be stark, even pro… - William Finnegan
The differences between the received wisdom, the standard version of events, and the facts on the ground may be subtle or they may be stark, even pro…
It's so much harder than it looks - to conjure a fictional world that some passing wolf of skepticism can't just blow down in one breath. - William Finnegan
It's so much harder than it looks - to conjure a fictional world that some passing wolf of skepticism can't just blow down in one breath.
Hawaii is the birthplace of surfing, and many Hawaiians or part-Hawaiians surf, but in the rest of the United States it's a pretty white sport. - William Finnegan
Hawaii is the birthplace of surfing, and many Hawaiians or part-Hawaiians surf, but in the rest of the United States it's a pretty white sport.
There are big surfing communities in every country with an ocean coast that I know in Central and South America. Same with Mexico, Bali, and nearly e… - William Finnegan
There are big surfing communities in every country with an ocean coast that I know in Central and South America. Same with Mexico, Bali, and nearly e…
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