Big wave surfers are human beings that have powers. They are men of enormous gentility.
Some of the most profound realizations that I came to about health did not derive from medicine, but derived from surfing. - Dorian "Doc" Paskowitz
Some of the most profound realizations that I came to about health did not derive from medicine, but derived from surfing.
- Dorian "Doc" Paskowitz
I love to be called Doc. - Dorian "Doc" Paskowitz
I love to be called Doc.
The reason he [Duke Kahanamouku] didn't like me was that I liked him too much. - Dorian "Doc" Paskowitz
The reason he [Duke Kahanamouku] didn't like me was that I liked him too much.
Health is a presence of a superior state of wellbeing, a vigor, a vitality, a pizzazz you have to work for every single day of your life. - Dorian "Doc" Paskowitz
Health is a presence of a superior state of wellbeing, a vigor, a vitality, a pizzazz you have to work for every single day of your life.
There is a wisdom in the wave - high-born, beautiful - for those who would but paddle out. - Dorian "Doc" Paskowitz
There is a wisdom in the wave - high-born, beautiful - for those who would but paddle out.
Death is not a stalker, always looking for us. Death is a scorekeeper tallying up how much we love life and how much we are willing to work for it. W… - Dorian "Doc" Paskowitz
Death is not a stalker, always looking for us. Death is a scorekeeper tallying up how much we love life and how much we are willing to work for it. W…
The greatest thing in life is health. - Dorian "Doc" Paskowitz
The greatest thing in life is health.
I don't see myself as legendary. If you want a legend, talk about someone like Duke Kahanamoku. - Dorian "Doc" Paskowitz
I don't see myself as legendary. If you want a legend, talk about someone like Duke Kahanamoku.
It's easier to die when you have lived than it is to die when you haven't. - Dorian "Doc" Paskowitz
It's easier to die when you have lived than it is to die when you haven't.
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