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My belief is that 'heaven' and 'hell' are metaphorical terms for what you make of your life. In any instant, you have the ability to make your life total pleasure or total hell.
Maintaining marriage seems to be tougher than fatherhood: apparently it's the most difficult thing in the world.
When I'm 50 I want to be a better surfer than I am now - for me it's a lifelong journey.
Most of what Hawaii has to offer is no secret. Pipeline is probably the most famous wave in the world.
Most anything I've ever set my mind to, I could accomplish.
I surf more now for other people than myself. I feel a lot of support from people wanting me to do well, and I feed off that. I can send a positive message to people from what I do.
I wanted to be a comedian.
It's a perfect wave when small and the most beautiful and scary wave on Earth when it's big, as the swell from deep water hits the shallow reef ledge. A ten-foot high wave and a 30-footer break in the same depth of water.
A wave isn't like a skate ramp or mountain; everything's moving around and you have to time how to move along with it. That's easier with a slow wave.
A lot of times I'll see guys who are nowhere near the level of the board they're riding. They might love surfing and love how it looks, but you really have to work your way up. It takes eating a little humble pie at first, and stepping back to equipment that might be a bit slow, but do it.
Big waves are a whole different ball game. You're riding a wave with an immense amount of speed and power, generally over 10 meters. On the face of the wave, obviously life and death thoughts start to happen.
Fatherhood isn't always a planned thing, but when it happens you just do it. It's very natural and in that sense it's not really difficult.
J-Bay displays the best of people’s surfing.
Motivation is temporary. Inspiration is permanent.
I've been in a poor physical shape many times in my career and I've had some of my best results. My best performances happened because my mind was in the right place. The mind is definitely stronger than the body.
This was the most emotional title of my career. I was the youngest champion, and now I'm the oldest.
For a surfer, it's never-ending. There's always some wave you want to surf.
I still feel like my best surfing is ahead of me.
Everything started coming into my head, ... I was the youngest world champ and now I'm the oldest world champ; it's been seven years since I won my last title and this is my seventh one ... but all those numbers and things are not as important as the feeling.
I want to surf better tomorrow. I want to surf better in 10 years. When I'm 50 I want to be a better surfer than I am now - for me it's a lifelong journey.
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