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Surfing is my religion, if I have one.
I was stuck for 16 months without a win there, and now I've had five this year. Once you break that barrier for yourself it makes it easier; you're not thinking about it... It opened up the floodgate for me.
I didn't think that wave was going to offer a ton, ... But the wave just held form, and I was able to get a lot out of it.
Well I'm always working on constantly everything. I never take the approach that I'm doing as well as I possibly can... I always think there's more and I think if you don't have that, you are not driven to be better.
Not to sound too deep or weird, but I think that the times when you really appreciate surfing are the times you're really sort of becoming one with nature. Surfing's as raw of a sport as it gets.
Your surfing can get better on every turn, on every wave you catch. Learn to read the ocean better. A big part of my success has been wave knowledge.
I think when a surfer becomes a surfer, it's almost like an obligation to be an environmentalist at the same time.
The joy of surfing is so many things combined, from the physical exertion of it, to the challenge of it, to the mental side of the sport.
It's like the mafia. Once you're in - your in. There's no getting out.
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