Become a documentarian of what you do..
Do for yourself or do without..
I stop wanting what I am looking for, looking for it..
Learned or unlearned we all must be scribbling..
I have always been afraid of banks..
Don't talk yourself into not being you..
I don't come from money..
What you are alone is what you are..
Much is wanting to those who seek or covet much..
Has it ever occurred to you that nothing occurs to God?.
He is praised by some, blamed by others..
Things can change in a day..
The things which must be must be for the best..
I don't call myself an expert because I've played experts. I know a little bit about very little. But it's very hard to not be drawn into saying someā¦.
I have inhaled, exhaled everything..
He who suffers in patience, surfers less and saves his soul. He who suffers impatiently, suffers more and loses his soul..
Thank God for a few free waves..
If there was no such thing as barrels I probably wouldn't even surf..
As a surfer, I am interested in the ocean. And I am concerned and interested in all of these natural and cultural rumblings underfoot as well..
It's a culmination of your life of surfing when you turn and paddle in at Mavericks..
All surfers are joined by one ocean..