I'm actually a very bad surfer, which is good because everybody likes a bad surfer. Nobody likes a good surfer..
I'm seeking out a new way to live and if it's surfing, that's the way I'll do it. I'll be a surfer for the rest of my life..
Traders and Surfers both have to deal with feelings of missing out on the small ones, until the big one comes along. They also have to deal with feel….
I don’t know why terrible things happen to us sometimes. But I have to believe that something good is going to come of this..
I'd blurted out the question only to keep him from noticing that I was working my hands free, but the Warden behind me, some young brown-haired surfe….